Peak District - by train
Most of the Peak District is upland. A mix of mountains, stone cliff edges, plateaus and moorlands, which are all generally high. The name Peak has nothing to do with the height of the hills, but rather derives from an Anglo-Saxon tribe that originally settled there: Pecsaetan. The lush green hills slops are cut with hedges, stone walls and fences - heritage from hundreds of years of farming and mining with echos of the romans who cultivated the area.
The Peak District is one of the oldest National Parks in England. The 1949 National Parks and Access to the Countryside Act set up the Countryside Commission, which designated the Peak District and Lake District as the first National Parks in 1951. But the history of Open Access movement dates to back to the era when the Parliamentary Enclosure act began fencing off the UK. Rambling groups and clubs formed to preserve the land for public recreation including the network of public footpaths across private land throughout the UK.
What to do
We came to walk. No agenda but aside from countryside climbs and bright leaves. For manageable walks with children from Matlock, I would recommend Pic Tor and the Darley Bridge circular walk (5 miles).
High on a hill above a churchyard is the local war memorial Pic Tor. It’s a short, steep walk up from town, sign-posted from the park. Ideal for an afternoon or evening climb the day you arrive to get the lay of the land. Good view for a short walk.
Darley Bridge circular walk (5 miles)
The walk takes you along a leafy path beside the Derwent before opening up to countryside vistas. Climb a ridge that provides a 360 view before descending into the small village of Oker and circling around Darley Bridge. The walk back is through gated fields with slotted stone turn-styles alongside an active steam train track. There is a path through town to get to the Thorn Tree Inn, our late lunch destination.
Cable cars to the Heights of Abraham
Lead mining was the dominate industry in the region for centuries. During the Victorian era, the area was able to pivot this history into a tourism. Visitors would climb the mountain to tour former lead mining caves and caverns such as the Great Masson Cavern at Aberham Height’s. Personally, I don’t see the appeal of going underground where it’s dark and damp, but hoards of visitors from then to this day say I’m wrong.
You can buy a family pass for £69 which includes cable car rides to the top. Worth it. The cable car ride itself was a highlight. The view from the top was fantastic, especially if you climb the tower. They have adventure playgrounds, said cave tours and a serviceable cafe to soak in the view with a cup of tea. I would recommend timing your visit with the changing autumn leaves. We bought tickets for the Halloween cave tour where actors time travelled the group back to the 1800s.
Our kids were champion walkers for Darley Bridge, so the Heights allowed us a good view and some small walks at the top without the pressure of another full day of walking. If you’re taking the train, it’s a useful Sunday stop because they let us leave our rolling suitcase in the office. And importantly, we could get on the train back to London at Matlock Bath, where the cable car base is located. Frictionless.
Chatsworth House and Bakewell
Elizabethan estate, Chatsworth House is 7 miles from Matlock. Being the inspiration for Mr. Darcey’s house in Pride and Prejudice and the home to the Duke of Devonshire, it’s brimming with history and has slate of activities and an adventure playground.
Bakewell is home to the bakewell tart and a delicious little town on it’s own. Worth a visit.
Where to eat in Matlock
Fantastic cosy pub with a wood burning stove and quality food for breakfast, lunch and dinner. The owners also run the barbeque place nexts door with a shared a kitchen so the smokey, sweet tones fill the bar which is completed by a Chesterfield sofa and heavy butcher blocks-like tables. The restaurant section is located in the back room, but don’t sit there - it lacks character.
The barbecue and meat expertise shine through on the menu too. I’m still dreaming about their barbecue brisket slab sandwich with slaw. We went back for breakfast and loved to spicy, chirzo, salsa and guacamole eggs on toast.
An extraordinary view with a climb to match, many on-line claim this is the best pub in town. We planned our Saturday circular walk to end here for a late lunch. Unfortunately, food isn’t served here on Saturdays because they’re out catering. This isn’t explicit on-line, but don’t make this mistake with kids. It’s was a hungry hike up the hill for no food.
Where to stay
We stayed in a lovely in-town apartment found on bookings.com, which I would recommend. Comfortable beds. Useful to have a kitchen. Lovely views of the surrounding hills. We were booking late for half-term so weren’t concerned about the price - good location for transport, walks and food was worth it.
How to get there by public transport
The Peak District isn’t wildly accessible by train, but you can get to Matlock connecting via Derby from St Pancras. Matlock is on the south-western edge of the Peaks and a good base to explore the area by foot. Another option is taking a train to Sheffield and then a regional train west to Edale, the start of the Pennine Way.
Once in Matlock there is a regional bus service that goes up to Bakewell and Buxton etc. When I plan long local weekends, I tend to prefer to pinpoint a beautiful and functional base location and explore the micro area by foot or bike.
Never having heard of Matlock before this trip, it makes me want to look up other unknown (to me) train stations across the UK and go for an explore. The island is dense with beauty and it’s accessible by public transport and right of way paths to everyone.